Notes
How locals do Yunnan
One place, one tip, straight to the point — the noodle shop with the queue, the free viewpoint, the famous sight that isn’t worth it. Tap a note for the Chinese name to show a driver, maps and, where we have them, prices.
194 notes

Small-pot noodles at Banpo, a short walk from Green Lake
Green Lake area, Kunming
Fried ersi and braised beef rice at Selemu on Boai Road
色了木 博爱路98号Fried ersi and braised beef rice at Selemu on Boai Road
Boai Road, Dali Old Town

Naxi home cooking at Zhongshun Restaurant by Zhongyi Market
Zhongyi Market, Lijiang

Meili sunrise at Feilaisi: book two or three nights, not one
Feilaisi, Deqin

Base in Gaozhuang: dinner on foot, 15 minutes from the airport
Gaozhuang, Jinghong
Grill your own tofu in Jianshui and pay in corn kernels
建水 清远路 烧豆腐Grill your own tofu in Jianshui and pay in corn kernels
Qingyuan Road, by the West Gate, Jianshui
Fuxian's pink beach at Hongshanzui, best after 3 pm
红山咀 粉红沙滩Fuxian's pink beach at Hongshanzui, best after 3 pm
West shore of Fuxian Lake, Chengjiang

Sleep in Heshun, not Tengchong city, and give it two or three nights
Heshun, Tengchong

Jinji Peaks at sunrise from the Laojianshan viewpoint
Jinji village, Luoping County

Take the dawn slow train from Kunming to Heijing
Kunming Station to Heijing

Jingmai: sleep in Nuogan for quiet, Wengji for comfort, Manghong for views
Jingmai Mountain, Lancang County

At Puzhehei station, skip the tram and take bus 8
Puzhehei railway station, Qiubei

Menghuan pagodas: see the gold one from outside, go up the silver at sunset
Menghuan pagodas, Mangshi

Dahaizi cranes: arrive before 4 p.m. for the feeding and lift-off
Dahaizi, Dashanbao

Wengding Wa village: time your visit for the wooden-drum ceremony
Mengjiao, Cangyuan County
A hand-grabbed rice feast in Liuku, with lacquer-oil chicken
六库 手抓饭 漆油鸡A hand-grabbed rice feast in Liuku, with lacquer-oil chicken
Liuku, Nujiang
Tofu-pudding rice noodles at Chenxi on Qianju Street, west of Green Lake
晨曦豆花米线 钱局街Tofu-pudding rice noodles at Chenxi on Qianju Street, west of Green Lake
Qianju Street, near Green Lake, Kunming
Point-to-order sour fish at Yutian Fish Restaurant in Xiaguan
玉田鱼馆 关平路Point-to-order sour fish at Yutian Fish Restaurant in Xiaguan
Guanping Road, Xiaguan

Wild mushroom hotpot with yak at Song Jiejie, an old-town veteran
Lijiang Old Town (several branches)
The quieter Meili platform on the hill behind Mingzhu Laka
明珠拉卡 后山观景台The quieter Meili platform on the hill behind Mingzhu Laka
Feilaisi, Deqin

Starlight Night Market: eat your way through, skip the clothes stalls
Gaozhuang, Jinghong

Daban Well: ¥5 soy milk at the spring behind Jianshui's tofu
Just outside the West Gate, Jianshui

Climb Bijia Hill at Luchong for the classic view along Fuxian
Luchong, Fuxian Lake

Heshun's west walk: five giant camphor trees and the Cun Clan Hall
West side of Heshun, Tengchong

Stay in a Jinji village farmstay to beat the crowds to the viewpoints
Jinji village, Luoping County

Heijing's combined ticket: Wu Family Compound, Dalong Temple, salt workshop
Heijing, Lufeng

Free dawn cloud sea from the slope behind Manghong's octagonal pagoda
Manghong, Jingmai Mountain
Base yourself in Xianrendong, Puzhehei's Yi lakeside village
普者黑 仙人洞村Base yourself in Xianrendong, Puzhehei's Yi lakeside village
Xianrendong village, Puzhehei

The Tree-Wrapped Pagoda: a bodhi tree grown right through a Qing pagoda
Mangshi town

Jigong Mountain loop: walkway, reservoir, then the clifftop
Jigong Mountain, Dashanbao

Cangyuan cliff paintings: 3,000-year-old hunters in morning light
Menglai, north of Cangyuan town
Try xiala, chicken heated through with local liquor
吓拉Try xiala, chicken heated through with local liquor
Villages along the Nujiang canyon
Pu'er-style dinner at Xilou, in an old mansion facing Green Lake
熙楼 翠湖店Pu'er-style dinner at Xilou, in an old mansion facing Green Lake
Green Lake, Kunming
Sour quince fish at Haiyan Restaurant by Xingsheng Bridge
海燕饭店 兴盛桥Sour quince fish at Haiyan Restaurant by Xingsheng Bridge
Xingsheng Bridge, Xiaguan
Clay-pot stews under an apartment block at Hongxing
丽江虹兴砂锅Clay-pot stews under an apartment block at Hongxing
Older residential district, Lijiang
Dashuiguan viewpoint: boulders in the foreground, go before noon
大水罐观景台Dashuiguan viewpoint: boulders in the foreground, go before noon
Highway 214 near Feilaisi, Deqin

Tropical Botanical Garden in Menglun: arrive at opening, ride the carts
Menglun, about 1.5 h from Jinghong
Grass-sprout rice noodles just inside Jianshui's West Gate
建水 草芽米线Grass-sprout rice noodles just inside Jianshui's West Gate
Inside the West Gate (Qingyuan Gate), Jianshui
Mingxing fish caves: old fishing caves and a white-sand beach
明星鱼洞Mingxing fish caves: old fishing caves and a white-sand beach
West shore of Fuxian Lake, Jiangchuan

Heshun's east walk: Twin Rainbow Bridge to Wild Duck Lake at sunset
East side of Heshun, Tengchong
Niujie spiral fields: free, and best in afternoon light
牛街螺丝田Niujie spiral fields: free, and best in afternoon light
Niujie, Luoping County
Salt-baked chicken at Huiyoutang, with ash tofu on the side
会友堂 盐焗鸡 灰豆腐Salt-baked chicken at Huiyoutang, with ash tofu on the side
Heijing, Lufeng

Drink tea with a Bulang family in Wengji
Wengji, Jingmai Mountain

Take a boat through Puzhehei's lotus, early or late, never at noon
Puzhehei lakes, Qiubei

Pao lu da: Dehong's cold coconut-milk sweet for a hot afternoon
Cold drink shops and night markets, Mangshi
Foggy day? Skip the glass walkway and walk the pine woods
大山包 玻璃栈道Foggy day? Skip the glass walkway and walk the pine woods
Jigong Mountain loop, Dashanbao

Moni Hei in Cangyuan: the Wa carnival where nobody stays clean
Cangyuan county town
Coffee above the canyon at the Yangpo village bookstore
阳坡村 先锋书店Coffee above the canyon at the Yangpo village bookstore
Yangpo village, Lushui, near Liuku
Graze your way through Zhuanxin Market
篆新农贸市场Graze your way through Zhuanxin Market
Wuhua District, Kunming

Weishan: breakfast noodles, then a slow walk through a Ming grid town
Weishan, about 1 hour south of Xiaguan
Baisha lunch: Dongba ribs and yak on a sizzling iron plate
白沙古镇 东巴骨Baisha lunch: Dongba ribs and yak on a sizzling iron plate
Baisha village, Lijiang

Wunongding: the whole Meili range in one frame from the road
Highway 214 near Deqin town

Manting Park and Zongfo Temple in the mid-afternoon
Central Jinghong

Walk Jianshui west to east so you pass every sight once
Jianshui old town
Copper-pot fish and the night market in Guanglong town
广龙小镇 铜锅鱼 星光夜市Copper-pot fish and the night market in Guanglong town
Guanglong town, Fuxian Lake

Dawn mist over Heshun's Dragon Pond and the laundry pavilions
Heshun, Tengchong
Gegang village terraces: dense flowers, a fraction of the crowds
革岗村 梯田Gegang village terraces: dense flowers, a fraction of the crowds
Luoping County

Stay the night in an old Heijing courtyard house, sunset from Feilai Temple
Heijing, Lufeng

Walk under the old tea trees of Dapingzhang
Jingmai Mountain

Climb Qinglong Mountain for the view over Puzhehei
Near Puzhehei village

Sa pie, the Dai dipping dish: start with the lemon version
Dai restaurants, Mangshi and Ruili

Avoid Dashanbao on Chinese public holidays
Dahaizi, Dashanbao

Guangyun Temple: Dai Buddhism in a Han-style wooden hall
Cangyuan county town
Soak in the riverside hot pools at Denggeng
登埂澡塘Soak in the riverside hot pools at Denggeng
About 12 km north of Liuku, Lushui

Wild mushroom hotpot at Junhai Senlin, with ganba fried rice
Kunming, several branches

Xizhou baba straight off the charcoal: savory or sweet
Xizhou, about 20 km north of Dali Old Town

In Shuhe, eat a few lanes back and order stir-fried haicaihua
Shuhe, Lijiang

Jinsha River Great Bend: stand beside the railing, not at its center
Near Benzilan, Deqin County
Guided rainforest walk on Jinuo Mountain: long sleeves and rain boots
基诺山雨林徒步Guided rainforest walk on Jinuo Mountain: long sleeves and rain boots
Jinuo Mountain, between Jinghong and Menglun

Jianshui Confucian Temple, one of the largest in China
Jianshui old town
Steamed stone-pot fish on a lake-view terrace in Xiaowan village
小湾村 石渔花园 蒸汽石锅鱼Steamed stone-pot fish on a lake-view terrace in Xiaowan village
Xiaowan village, Chengjiang

Pea-flour porridge at Heshun's morning market, then up to Zhongtian Temple
Xiaocai Street, Heshun
Majie terraces: a 40 km detour to curving fields with nobody around
马街 松毛村 梯田Majie terraces: a 40 km detour to curving fields with nobody around
Majie, Luoping County
Yi Ancient Town: skip the daytime, come back for the night dance
彝人古镇Yi Ancient Town: skip the daytime, come back for the night dance
Chuxiong city

Mangjing's bee trees: giant old trees hung with wild honeycombs
Mangjing, Jingmai Mountain
Sunset at Lovers' Bridge, between lotus ponds and paddies
普者黑 情人桥Sunset at Lovers' Bridge, between lotus ponds and paddies
Puzhehei
Yinjia Breakfast: build your own noodle bowl from dozens of toppings
芒市 银家早点Yinjia Breakfast: build your own noodle bowl from dozens of toppings
Mangshi

Horse ride to Jigong Mountain: agree price and end point first
Jigong Mountain loop, Dashanbao
Order Wa chicken rice porridge in Cangyuan
佤族鸡肉烂饭Order Wa chicken rice porridge in Cangyuan
Cangyuan

Spend a night in Laomudeng, a Nu village high above the canyon
Pihe, Fugong county
Late-night barbecue at Jianghu Yizhandeng, grilling since 1991
江湖一盏灯 烧烤Late-night barbecue at Jianghu Yizhandeng, grilling since 1991
Kunming; check the current address in a map app

Jianchuan Old Town: Ming streets, painted couplets and a Sunday market
Jianchuan, about 2 hours north of Dali
Shop like a resident at Jinjia Market
金甲市场Shop like a resident at Jinjia Market
Lijiang city

Break the Shangri-La to Deqin drive with a night in Benzilan
Benzilan, Deqin County
A sit-down Dai meal at Mandou Dai Garden Restaurant
曼斗傣味花园餐厅A sit-down Dai meal at Mandou Dai Garden Restaurant
Mandou, Jinghong

Fig-seed ice jelly and rice rolls just inside Chaoyang Tower
Pedestrian street just inside Chaoyang Tower (East Gate), Jianshui
MU Coffee above Xiaowan: wait for the 2–5 pm light
MU.目咖啡MU Coffee above Xiaowan: wait for the 2–5 pm light
Xiaowan village, Chengjiang

Da jiu jia: Tengchong's fried rice cake with an emperor's story
Tengchong city and Heshun

Jiulong Waterfalls: walk in from the west gate, ride back from the east
Luoping County

Yuanmou Earth Forest after 4 p.m., when the pillars turn gold
Yuanmou county, northern Chuxiong
Mushroom dinner at Yiduojun, Manghong's best-known restaurant
芒洪 一朵菌Mushroom dinner at Yiduojun, Manghong's best-known restaurant
Manghong, Jingmai Mountain
Wild-tomato sour fish and lotus dishes in Puzhehei's villages
普者黑 酸汤鱼Wild-tomato sour fish and lotus dishes in Puzhehei's villages
Village restaurants, Puzhehei
A Miao Restaurant: no menu, point at what's in the fridge
芒市 阿妙餐厅A Miao Restaurant: no menu, point at what's in the fridge
Mangshi

Dress for 3,200 m and wind at Dashanbao, even if the city is mild
Dashanbao plateau
Sleep in an old muleteers' inn in Lushi
鲁史古镇 马店Sleep in an old muleteers' inn in Lushi
Lushi, Fengqing County

Zhiziluo: an hour in a county town left in the 1970s
Pihe, Fugong county

The plane-tree walk: East Pagoda to Xunjin Street
Old center, Kunming
Skip Qianshi Mountain, the paid stone-lion park above Jianchuan
千狮山Skip Qianshi Mountain, the paid stone-lion park above Jianchuan
Jianchuan
Jade Dragon above the vegetable stalls: Zhongyi Market at dawn
忠义市场Jade Dragon above the vegetable stalls: Zhongyi Market at dawn
Zhongyi Market, Lijiang

Mingyong Glacier: a forest boardwalk to the ice, if it's open
Mingyong village, across the Lancang valley from Feilaisi

Paoluda: the cold coconut-milk dessert for Jinghong afternoons
Dessert shops across Jinghong

Ride Jianshui's old narrow-gauge train to Tuanshan village
Lin'an station, Jianshui

Moon Bay Wetland Park, where the entry fee comes back as credit
North shore of Fuxian Lake, Chengjiang

Rehai: see the Big Boiling Pot, then soak 20 minutes at a time
Rehai, Tengchong

Time Luoping for mid-February to mid-March, and check the bloom report
Luoping County

Yi embroidery and costumes at the free Chuxiong Prefecture Museum
Chuxiong city
Sunset over the tea hills from a Manghong tea-and-wine bar
芒洪 槚蔎茶酒馆Sunset over the tea hills from a Manghong tea-and-wine bar
Manghong, Jingmai Mountain
Skip Puzhehei's paid Swan Lake and the TV-drama set
普者黑 天鹅湖Skip Puzhehei's paid Swan Lake and the TV-drama set
Puzhehei
Xinwanchang night market: Dai and Burmese snacks in an old factory
芒市 新玩厂Xinwanchang night market: Dai and Burmese snacks in an old factory
Hedong Road, Mangshi
Zhaotong small meat skewers, grilled over charcoal and ordered by the dozen
昭通小肉串Zhaotong small meat skewers, grilled over charcoal and ordered by the dozen
Street stalls, Zhaotong city
Bingdao in spring: pick and pan-fire tea in Mengku's famous village
勐库 冰岛老寨Bingdao in spring: pick and pan-fire tea in Mengku's famous village
Mengku, Shuangjiang County
The First Bend of the Nujiang from the Gongdang Mountain viewpoint
贡当神山观景台 怒江第一湾The First Bend of the Nujiang from the Gongdang Mountain viewpoint
Bingzhongluo, Gongshan county

Green Lake before 9 am: dancers, choirs and winter gulls
Green Lake, Kunming

Shibaoshan Grottoes: Nanzhao kings carved in red sandstone
Shibaoshan, between Shaxi and Jianchuan

Snow peaks without the cable car: Baisha, Hutuwo and Yuhu in one day
Foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang

Yubeng is its own trip: plan three days, don't tack it on
Yubeng, Meili Snow Mountain
Yellow-cattle beef hotpot for dinner, or wild mushrooms in summer
黄牛肉火锅Yellow-cattle beef hotpot for dinner, or wild mushrooms in summer
Jinghong

Time Yuanyang for the flooded months: November to April
Yuanyang rice terraces

Half-billion-year-old fossils at the Chengjiang museum, free with booking
Chengjiang, near Fuxian Lake

Tengchong volcano park: balloons fly early, roughly 7–10 am
Volcano Geopark, north of Tengchong

Don't walk into the canola for photos
Luoping County

World Dinosaur Valley in Lufeng: real fossil beds, theme-park prices
Lufeng, Chuxiong

Mojiang's black-face festival in early May: wear clothes you'll throw away
Mojiang county town
Flower Face Festival at Puzhehei: black ash on your face for luck
普者黑 花脸节Flower Face Festival at Puzhehei: black ash on your face for luck
Puzhehei, Qiubei county
Try a Burmese-style hair wash in Mangshi
缅式洗头Try a Burmese-style hair wash in Mangshi
Mangshi
Charcoal-roasted potatoes with a dry chili dip
昭通 烧洋芋Charcoal-roasted potatoes with a dry chili dip
Street stalls, Zhaotong city
Visit the 3,200-year-old Jinxiu tea tree above the Lancang
香竹箐 锦绣茶王Visit the 3,200-year-old Jinxiu tea tree above the Lancang
Xiangzhuqing, Xiaowan township, Fengqing County
Walk into Wuli village on the Tea Horse Road from Chaohong Bridge
雾里村 朝红桥Walk into Wuli village on the Tea Horse Road from Chaohong Bridge
Near Bingzhongluo, Gongshan county

Haigeng Dam gulls: be there around 8 am, not at midday
Dianchi Lake, Kunming

Sleep in Nuodeng, a salt-well village famous for its ham
Nuodeng, Yunlong county, about 2.5 hours' drive west of Dali
A free family-run pasture just beyond Yuhu village
玉湖村 爷爷种的菜A free family-run pasture just beyond Yuhu village
Near Yuhu village, Lijiang

Cizhong Church: a Tibetan Catholic church and vineyard on the Lancang
Cizhong village, Yanmen, Deqin County
Breakfast like Jinghong: a bowl of Dai rice noodles at a morning stall
米干Breakfast like Jinghong: a bowl of Dai rice noodles at a morning stall
Morning stalls, Jinghong

Duoyishu at sunrise, watched from your guesthouse roof
Duoyishu, Yuanyang
A hot-spring soak at Reshuitang village after a day on the lake
热水塘村 温泉A hot-spring soak at Reshuitang village after a day on the lake
Fuxian Lake

Western Yunnan Anti-Japanese War Museum and Guoshang Cemetery
Tengchong city
Breakfast in Qujing city: a bowl of steamed ersi
曲靖蒸饵丝Breakfast in Qujing city: a bowl of steamed ersi
Qujing city

Nanhua in mushroom season: eat wild fungi where they're picked
Nanhua county, between Chuxiong and Dali
Pineapple rice across from the chieftain's palace in Nayun, Menglian
孟连 娜允古镇 宣抚司署Pineapple rice across from the chieftain's palace in Nayun, Menglian
Nayun Old Town, Menglian

Bamei: reach a Zhuang valley by boat through a cave
Bamei, Guangnan county

Munao Zongge: dance with thousands of Jingpo around the Lantern Festival
Mangshi and Longchuan
Breakfast like Zhaotong: a bowl of steamed ersi
昭通 蒸饵丝Breakfast like Zhaotong: a bowl of steamed ersi
Breakfast shops, Zhaotong city
Try Dai sapie at the Mengding night market
孟定 夜市 撒撇Try Dai sapie at the Mengding night market
Mengding, Gengma County

Chongding Church and Puhua Temple: two faiths, one morning
Bingzhongluo, Gongshan county
Sunset over Dianchi from Baofeng Wetland
宝丰湿地Sunset over Dianchi from Baofeng Wetland
East shore of Dianchi Lake, Guandu District, Kunming
Fengyu at first light: mist over a Bai farming valley
凤羽古镇Fengyu at first light: mist over a Bai farming valley
Fengyu, Eryuan county, north of Erhai
Old-town roofs and Jade Dragon in one frame from Bailong Square
白龙文化广场Old-town roofs and Jade Dragon in one frame from Bailong Square
Lijiang Old Town area
Order first, then queue: yak skewers on the Feilaisi food street
雪山牦牛肉烤串 飞来寺Order first, then queue: yak skewers on the Feilaisi food street
Food street below the Feilaisi viewing platform
Manyuan: a lived-in Dai village for a quiet morning
曼远村Manyuan: a lived-in Dai village for a quiet morning
Near Jinghong

Bada at sunset: the biggest sweep of terraces
Bada, Yuanyang

Don't come in July or August expecting the famous blue water
Fuxian Lake
Jiangdong Ginkgo Village: gold for a couple of weeks around late November
腾冲 固东 江东银杏村Jiangdong Ginkgo Village: gold for a couple of weeks around late November
Gudong, north of Tengchong
Zhanyi chili chicken, the dish Qujing is known for
沾益辣子鸡Zhanyi chili chicken, the dish Qujing is known for
Zhanyi district, Qujing
Don't buy wild mushrooms at the market to cook yourself
野生菌 别自己做Don't buy wild mushrooms at the market to cook yourself
Across Chuxiong, Jun–Sep

Nakeli: an hour on the old Tea Horse Road, not a whole day
Ning'er, north of Pu'er city
A Zhuang dustpan feast in Bamei, eaten with your hands
坝美 簸箕宴A Zhuang dustpan feast in Bamei, eaten with your hands
Guesthouses in Bamei

One Village, Two Countries in Ruili: a half-hour stop, not a destination
Yinjing, Ruili
Gastrodia chicken stew, a Zhaotong cold-night dinner
天麻炖鸡Gastrodia chicken stew, a Zhaotong cold-night dinner
Restaurants, Zhaotong city
Watch paper made by hand in Mangtuan, a Dai village near Mengding
芒团村 手工造纸Watch paper made by hand in Mangtuan, a Dai village near Mengding
Mengding, Gengma County
Stay in Qiunatong, the last Nu village before Tibet
秋那桶 云上人家Stay in Qiunatong, the last Nu village before Tibet
Qiunatong, north of Bingzhongluo

Golden Temple Park: a bronze hall in the forest on Mingfeng Hill
Northeast Kunming

Walk Cangshan's Jade Belt Road for lake views without a climb
Cangshan, above Dali Old Town

Black Dragon Pool at 8 a.m. for Jade Dragon's reflection
North of Lijiang Old Town
Yak hotpot in Shangri-La: drink the broth first, then dip the meat
牦牛肉火锅 独克宗Yak hotpot in Shangri-La: drink the broth first, then dip the meat
Dukezong old town, Shangri-La
Manzhang Village: Dai crafts and cafés, not an untouched village
曼掌村Manzhang Village: Dai crafts and cafés, not an untouched village
Near Jinghong
Hadanpu: the free viewpoint that looks like drone footage
哈单普梯田Hadanpu: the free viewpoint that looks like drone footage
Hadanpu, Yuanyang
Ailao Mountain: stay in the open scenic areas, not the wild reserve
哀牢山 石门峡Ailao Mountain: stay in the open scenic areas, not the wild reserve
Xinping County, Yuxi
Skip the jade and amber shop stops on Tengchong day tours
翡翠 琥珀 购物店Skip the jade and amber shop stops on Tengchong day tours
Tengchong

Huize old town: the guildhalls of Yunnan's copper boom
Huize County, north Qujing

Shiyang, a quiet salt town with a huge Qing bronze Confucius
Dayao county, north of Chuxiong city
Skip the coffee-estate tours near Pu'er city; have coffee on Jingmai
普洱 咖啡庄园Skip the coffee-estate tours near Pu'er city; have coffee on Jingmai
Around Pu'er city

Walk Bamei's two-hour loop through the fields
Bamei valley floor
In Ruili, skip the roadside 'duty-free' shops and jade pitches
瑞丽 免税店 翡翠In Ruili, skip the roadside 'duty-free' shops and jade pitches
Ruili
Doushaguan: the Qin-era Five-Foot Road and cliff hanging coffins
豆沙关 五尺道 僰人悬棺Doushaguan: the Qin-era Five-Foot Road and cliff hanging coffins
Yanjin County, north of Zhaotong city

Don't do Wengding as a day trip from Lincang city
Lincang city to Cangyuan

Don't drive the canyon road after dark or in the rainy season
Liuku to Bingzhongluo
Tuzhuchao: artist Luo Xu's red-brick 'nests', by reservation only
土著巢Tuzhuchao: artist Luo Xu's red-brick 'nests', by reservation only
Guandu District, Kunming, off the Kunming–Shilin road
Winter cherry blossom over tea terraces at Wuliang Mountain
南涧 无量山樱花谷Winter cherry blossom over tea terraces at Wuliang Mountain
Nanjian county, south of Xiaguan
At Lugu Lake, sleep in Daluoshui village on the Yunnan shore
泸沽湖 大落水村At Lugu Lake, sleep in Daluoshui village on the Yunnan shore
Lugu Lake, Ninglang county, Lijiang

Songzanlin Monastery in the morning, before the groups
North of Shangri-La town

Zhanglang: a Bulang hill village that keeps palm-leaf scriptures
Menghai County

Azheke, a Hani village of thatched mushroom houses
Near Aichun, Yuanyang

Stone Forest at opening time, then Naigu next door
Shilin County, Kunming

Make your own indigo tie-dye in a Zhoucheng workshop
Zhoucheng village, a few kilometers north of Xizhou
Skip the paid "lake reflection" shot at Yundi'an Café
云堤岸咖啡Skip the paid "lake reflection" shot at Yundi'an Café
Lijiang

Circle Napa Lake by e-bike in two to three hours
Northwest of Shangri-La town

Water-Splashing Festival in mid-April: book early, bag your phone
Jinghong

Laohuzui: ask locally before you drive there
Laohuzui, Yuanyang
Skip the heavily promoted restaurants on the Green Lake strip
网红餐厅Skip the heavily promoted restaurants on the Green Lake strip
Green Lake area, Kunming

Don't try to circle all of Erhai in one day
Erhai Lake
Don't hire a Lijiang driver on a handshake
丽江 包车Don't hire a Lijiang driver on a handshake
Lijiang

Skip Pudacuo National Park in winter
East of Shangri-La town
Skip the tea, jade and latex shops your driver recommends
不去购物店Skip the tea, jade and latex shops your driver recommends
Across Xishuangbanna

Crossing-the-bridge noodles in Mengzi, where the story is set
Mengzi