Golden Week, 1–7 October: trains, hotels and Jade Dragon tickets sell out. If you can, start your trip after 8 October. Updated 25 Sep

Notes

How locals do Yunnan

One place, one tip, straight to the point — the noodle shop with the queue, the free viewpoint, the famous sight that isn’t worth it. Tap a note for the Chinese name to show a driver, maps and, where we have them, prices.

194 notes

Small-pot noodles at Banpo, a short walk from Green Lake

EatWorth it

Small-pot noodles at Banpo, a short walk from Green Lake

Green Lake area, Kunming

Fried ersi and braised beef rice at Selemu on Boai Road

色了木 博爱路98号

EatWorth it

Fried ersi and braised beef rice at Selemu on Boai Road

Boai Road, Dali Old Town

Naxi home cooking at Zhongshun Restaurant by Zhongyi Market

EatWorth it

Naxi home cooking at Zhongshun Restaurant by Zhongyi Market

Zhongyi Market, Lijiang

Meili sunrise at Feilaisi: book two or three nights, not one

SeeWorth it

Meili sunrise at Feilaisi: book two or three nights, not one

Feilaisi, Deqin

Base in Gaozhuang: dinner on foot, 15 minutes from the airport

StayWorth it

Base in Gaozhuang: dinner on foot, 15 minutes from the airport

Gaozhuang, Jinghong

Grill your own tofu in Jianshui and pay in corn kernels

建水 清远路 烧豆腐

EatWorth it

Grill your own tofu in Jianshui and pay in corn kernels

Qingyuan Road, by the West Gate, Jianshui

Fuxian's pink beach at Hongshanzui, best after 3 pm

红山咀 粉红沙滩

Photo spotWorth it

Fuxian's pink beach at Hongshanzui, best after 3 pm

West shore of Fuxian Lake, Chengjiang

Sleep in Heshun, not Tengchong city, and give it two or three nights

StayWorth it

Sleep in Heshun, not Tengchong city, and give it two or three nights

Heshun, Tengchong

Jinji Peaks at sunrise from the Laojianshan viewpoint

Photo spotWorth it

Jinji Peaks at sunrise from the Laojianshan viewpoint

Jinji village, Luoping County

Take the dawn slow train from Kunming to Heijing

DoWorth it

Take the dawn slow train from Kunming to Heijing

Kunming Station to Heijing

Jingmai: sleep in Nuogan for quiet, Wengji for comfort, Manghong for views

StayWorth it

Jingmai: sleep in Nuogan for quiet, Wengji for comfort, Manghong for views

Jingmai Mountain, Lancang County

At Puzhehei station, skip the tram and take bus 8

Skip it

At Puzhehei station, skip the tram and take bus 8

Puzhehei railway station, Qiubei

Menghuan pagodas: see the gold one from outside, go up the silver at sunset

Photo spotWorth it

Menghuan pagodas: see the gold one from outside, go up the silver at sunset

Menghuan pagodas, Mangshi

Dahaizi cranes: arrive before 4 p.m. for the feeding and lift-off

SeeWorth it

Dahaizi cranes: arrive before 4 p.m. for the feeding and lift-off

Dahaizi, Dashanbao

Wengding Wa village: time your visit for the wooden-drum ceremony

SeeIt depends

Wengding Wa village: time your visit for the wooden-drum ceremony

Mengjiao, Cangyuan County

A hand-grabbed rice feast in Liuku, with lacquer-oil chicken

六库 手抓饭 漆油鸡

EatWorth it

A hand-grabbed rice feast in Liuku, with lacquer-oil chicken

Liuku, Nujiang

Tofu-pudding rice noodles at Chenxi on Qianju Street, west of Green Lake

晨曦豆花米线 钱局街

EatWorth it

Tofu-pudding rice noodles at Chenxi on Qianju Street, west of Green Lake

Qianju Street, near Green Lake, Kunming

Point-to-order sour fish at Yutian Fish Restaurant in Xiaguan

玉田鱼馆 关平路

EatWorth it

Point-to-order sour fish at Yutian Fish Restaurant in Xiaguan

Guanping Road, Xiaguan

Wild mushroom hotpot with yak at Song Jiejie, an old-town veteran

EatWorth it

Wild mushroom hotpot with yak at Song Jiejie, an old-town veteran

Lijiang Old Town (several branches)

The quieter Meili platform on the hill behind Mingzhu Laka

明珠拉卡 后山观景台

Photo spotWorth it

The quieter Meili platform on the hill behind Mingzhu Laka

Feilaisi, Deqin

Starlight Night Market: eat your way through, skip the clothes stalls

EatIt depends

Starlight Night Market: eat your way through, skip the clothes stalls

Gaozhuang, Jinghong

Daban Well: ¥5 soy milk at the spring behind Jianshui's tofu

EatIt depends

Daban Well: ¥5 soy milk at the spring behind Jianshui's tofu

Just outside the West Gate, Jianshui

Climb Bijia Hill at Luchong for the classic view along Fuxian

SeeWorth it

Climb Bijia Hill at Luchong for the classic view along Fuxian

Luchong, Fuxian Lake

Heshun's west walk: five giant camphor trees and the Cun Clan Hall

DoWorth it

Heshun's west walk: five giant camphor trees and the Cun Clan Hall

West side of Heshun, Tengchong

Stay in a Jinji village farmstay to beat the crowds to the viewpoints

StayWorth it

Stay in a Jinji village farmstay to beat the crowds to the viewpoints

Jinji village, Luoping County

Heijing's combined ticket: Wu Family Compound, Dalong Temple, salt workshop

SeeWorth it

Heijing's combined ticket: Wu Family Compound, Dalong Temple, salt workshop

Heijing, Lufeng

Free dawn cloud sea from the slope behind Manghong's octagonal pagoda

Photo spotWorth it

Free dawn cloud sea from the slope behind Manghong's octagonal pagoda

Manghong, Jingmai Mountain

Base yourself in Xianrendong, Puzhehei's Yi lakeside village

普者黑 仙人洞村

StayWorth it

Base yourself in Xianrendong, Puzhehei's Yi lakeside village

Xianrendong village, Puzhehei

The Tree-Wrapped Pagoda: a bodhi tree grown right through a Qing pagoda

SeeWorth it

The Tree-Wrapped Pagoda: a bodhi tree grown right through a Qing pagoda

Mangshi town

Jigong Mountain loop: walkway, reservoir, then the clifftop

DoIt depends

Jigong Mountain loop: walkway, reservoir, then the clifftop

Jigong Mountain, Dashanbao

Cangyuan cliff paintings: 3,000-year-old hunters in morning light

SeeWorth it

Cangyuan cliff paintings: 3,000-year-old hunters in morning light

Menglai, north of Cangyuan town

Try xiala, chicken heated through with local liquor

吓拉

EatIt depends

Try xiala, chicken heated through with local liquor

Villages along the Nujiang canyon

Pu'er-style dinner at Xilou, in an old mansion facing Green Lake

熙楼 翠湖店

EatWorth it

Pu'er-style dinner at Xilou, in an old mansion facing Green Lake

Green Lake, Kunming

Sour quince fish at Haiyan Restaurant by Xingsheng Bridge

海燕饭店 兴盛桥

EatWorth it

Sour quince fish at Haiyan Restaurant by Xingsheng Bridge

Xingsheng Bridge, Xiaguan

Clay-pot stews under an apartment block at Hongxing

丽江虹兴砂锅

EatWorth it

Clay-pot stews under an apartment block at Hongxing

Older residential district, Lijiang

Dashuiguan viewpoint: boulders in the foreground, go before noon

大水罐观景台

Photo spotWorth it

Dashuiguan viewpoint: boulders in the foreground, go before noon

Highway 214 near Feilaisi, Deqin

Tropical Botanical Garden in Menglun: arrive at opening, ride the carts

SeeWorth it

Tropical Botanical Garden in Menglun: arrive at opening, ride the carts

Menglun, about 1.5 h from Jinghong

Grass-sprout rice noodles just inside Jianshui's West Gate

建水 草芽米线

EatWorth it

Grass-sprout rice noodles just inside Jianshui's West Gate

Inside the West Gate (Qingyuan Gate), Jianshui

Mingxing fish caves: old fishing caves and a white-sand beach

明星鱼洞

SeeIt depends

Mingxing fish caves: old fishing caves and a white-sand beach

West shore of Fuxian Lake, Jiangchuan

Heshun's east walk: Twin Rainbow Bridge to Wild Duck Lake at sunset

DoWorth it

Heshun's east walk: Twin Rainbow Bridge to Wild Duck Lake at sunset

East side of Heshun, Tengchong

Niujie spiral fields: free, and best in afternoon light

牛街螺丝田

Photo spotWorth it

Niujie spiral fields: free, and best in afternoon light

Niujie, Luoping County

Salt-baked chicken at Huiyoutang, with ash tofu on the side

会友堂 盐焗鸡 灰豆腐

EatWorth it

Salt-baked chicken at Huiyoutang, with ash tofu on the side

Heijing, Lufeng

Drink tea with a Bulang family in Wengji

DoWorth it

Drink tea with a Bulang family in Wengji

Wengji, Jingmai Mountain

Take a boat through Puzhehei's lotus, early or late, never at noon

DoWorth it

Take a boat through Puzhehei's lotus, early or late, never at noon

Puzhehei lakes, Qiubei

Pao lu da: Dehong's cold coconut-milk sweet for a hot afternoon

EatWorth it

Pao lu da: Dehong's cold coconut-milk sweet for a hot afternoon

Cold drink shops and night markets, Mangshi

Foggy day? Skip the glass walkway and walk the pine woods

大山包 玻璃栈道

Skip it

Foggy day? Skip the glass walkway and walk the pine woods

Jigong Mountain loop, Dashanbao

Moni Hei in Cangyuan: the Wa carnival where nobody stays clean

DoWorth it

Moni Hei in Cangyuan: the Wa carnival where nobody stays clean

Cangyuan county town

Coffee above the canyon at the Yangpo village bookstore

阳坡村 先锋书店

SeeWorth it

Coffee above the canyon at the Yangpo village bookstore

Yangpo village, Lushui, near Liuku

Graze your way through Zhuanxin Market

篆新农贸市场

EatWorth it

Graze your way through Zhuanxin Market

Wuhua District, Kunming

Weishan: breakfast noodles, then a slow walk through a Ming grid town

DoWorth it

Weishan: breakfast noodles, then a slow walk through a Ming grid town

Weishan, about 1 hour south of Xiaguan

Baisha lunch: Dongba ribs and yak on a sizzling iron plate

白沙古镇 东巴骨

EatWorth it

Baisha lunch: Dongba ribs and yak on a sizzling iron plate

Baisha village, Lijiang

Wunongding: the whole Meili range in one frame from the road

SeeWorth it

Wunongding: the whole Meili range in one frame from the road

Highway 214 near Deqin town

Manting Park and Zongfo Temple in the mid-afternoon

SeeWorth it

Manting Park and Zongfo Temple in the mid-afternoon

Central Jinghong

Walk Jianshui west to east so you pass every sight once

DoWorth it

Walk Jianshui west to east so you pass every sight once

Jianshui old town

Copper-pot fish and the night market in Guanglong town

广龙小镇 铜锅鱼 星光夜市

EatWorth it

Copper-pot fish and the night market in Guanglong town

Guanglong town, Fuxian Lake

Dawn mist over Heshun's Dragon Pond and the laundry pavilions

Photo spotWorth it

Dawn mist over Heshun's Dragon Pond and the laundry pavilions

Heshun, Tengchong

Gegang village terraces: dense flowers, a fraction of the crowds

革岗村 梯田

SeeWorth it

Gegang village terraces: dense flowers, a fraction of the crowds

Luoping County

Stay the night in an old Heijing courtyard house, sunset from Feilai Temple

StayWorth it

Stay the night in an old Heijing courtyard house, sunset from Feilai Temple

Heijing, Lufeng

Walk under the old tea trees of Dapingzhang

SeeWorth it

Walk under the old tea trees of Dapingzhang

Jingmai Mountain

Climb Qinglong Mountain for the view over Puzhehei

Photo spotWorth it

Climb Qinglong Mountain for the view over Puzhehei

Near Puzhehei village

Sa pie, the Dai dipping dish: start with the lemon version

EatWorth it

Sa pie, the Dai dipping dish: start with the lemon version

Dai restaurants, Mangshi and Ruili

Avoid Dashanbao on Chinese public holidays

Skip it

Avoid Dashanbao on Chinese public holidays

Dahaizi, Dashanbao

Guangyun Temple: Dai Buddhism in a Han-style wooden hall

SeeWorth it

Guangyun Temple: Dai Buddhism in a Han-style wooden hall

Cangyuan county town

Soak in the riverside hot pools at Denggeng

登埂澡塘

DoIt depends

Soak in the riverside hot pools at Denggeng

About 12 km north of Liuku, Lushui

Wild mushroom hotpot at Junhai Senlin, with ganba fried rice

EatWorth it

Wild mushroom hotpot at Junhai Senlin, with ganba fried rice

Kunming, several branches

Xizhou baba straight off the charcoal: savory or sweet

EatWorth it

Xizhou baba straight off the charcoal: savory or sweet

Xizhou, about 20 km north of Dali Old Town

In Shuhe, eat a few lanes back and order stir-fried haicaihua

EatWorth it

In Shuhe, eat a few lanes back and order stir-fried haicaihua

Shuhe, Lijiang

Jinsha River Great Bend: stand beside the railing, not at its center

Photo spotWorth it

Jinsha River Great Bend: stand beside the railing, not at its center

Near Benzilan, Deqin County

Guided rainforest walk on Jinuo Mountain: long sleeves and rain boots

基诺山雨林徒步

DoWorth it

Guided rainforest walk on Jinuo Mountain: long sleeves and rain boots

Jinuo Mountain, between Jinghong and Menglun

Jianshui Confucian Temple, one of the largest in China

SeeWorth it

Jianshui Confucian Temple, one of the largest in China

Jianshui old town

Steamed stone-pot fish on a lake-view terrace in Xiaowan village

小湾村 石渔花园 蒸汽石锅鱼

EatWorth it

Steamed stone-pot fish on a lake-view terrace in Xiaowan village

Xiaowan village, Chengjiang

Pea-flour porridge at Heshun's morning market, then up to Zhongtian Temple

EatWorth it

Pea-flour porridge at Heshun's morning market, then up to Zhongtian Temple

Xiaocai Street, Heshun

Majie terraces: a 40 km detour to curving fields with nobody around

马街 松毛村 梯田

SeeIt depends

Majie terraces: a 40 km detour to curving fields with nobody around

Majie, Luoping County

Yi Ancient Town: skip the daytime, come back for the night dance

彝人古镇

DoIt depends

Yi Ancient Town: skip the daytime, come back for the night dance

Chuxiong city

Mangjing's bee trees: giant old trees hung with wild honeycombs

SeeWorth it

Mangjing's bee trees: giant old trees hung with wild honeycombs

Mangjing, Jingmai Mountain

Sunset at Lovers' Bridge, between lotus ponds and paddies

普者黑 情人桥

Photo spotWorth it

Sunset at Lovers' Bridge, between lotus ponds and paddies

Puzhehei

Yinjia Breakfast: build your own noodle bowl from dozens of toppings

芒市 银家早点

EatWorth it

Yinjia Breakfast: build your own noodle bowl from dozens of toppings

Mangshi

Horse ride to Jigong Mountain: agree price and end point first

DoIt depends

Horse ride to Jigong Mountain: agree price and end point first

Jigong Mountain loop, Dashanbao

Order Wa chicken rice porridge in Cangyuan

佤族鸡肉烂饭

EatWorth it

Order Wa chicken rice porridge in Cangyuan

Cangyuan

Spend a night in Laomudeng, a Nu village high above the canyon

StayWorth it

Spend a night in Laomudeng, a Nu village high above the canyon

Pihe, Fugong county

Late-night barbecue at Jianghu Yizhandeng, grilling since 1991

江湖一盏灯 烧烤

EatWorth it

Late-night barbecue at Jianghu Yizhandeng, grilling since 1991

Kunming; check the current address in a map app

Jianchuan Old Town: Ming streets, painted couplets and a Sunday market

SeeWorth it

Jianchuan Old Town: Ming streets, painted couplets and a Sunday market

Jianchuan, about 2 hours north of Dali

Shop like a resident at Jinjia Market

金甲市场

DoWorth it

Shop like a resident at Jinjia Market

Lijiang city

Break the Shangri-La to Deqin drive with a night in Benzilan

StayWorth it

Break the Shangri-La to Deqin drive with a night in Benzilan

Benzilan, Deqin County

A sit-down Dai meal at Mandou Dai Garden Restaurant

曼斗傣味花园餐厅

EatWorth it

A sit-down Dai meal at Mandou Dai Garden Restaurant

Mandou, Jinghong

Fig-seed ice jelly and rice rolls just inside Chaoyang Tower

EatWorth it

Fig-seed ice jelly and rice rolls just inside Chaoyang Tower

Pedestrian street just inside Chaoyang Tower (East Gate), Jianshui

MU Coffee above Xiaowan: wait for the 2–5 pm light

MU.目咖啡

Photo spotIt depends

MU Coffee above Xiaowan: wait for the 2–5 pm light

Xiaowan village, Chengjiang

Da jiu jia: Tengchong's fried rice cake with an emperor's story

EatWorth it

Da jiu jia: Tengchong's fried rice cake with an emperor's story

Tengchong city and Heshun

Jiulong Waterfalls: walk in from the west gate, ride back from the east

SeeIt depends

Jiulong Waterfalls: walk in from the west gate, ride back from the east

Luoping County

Yuanmou Earth Forest after 4 p.m., when the pillars turn gold

Photo spotWorth it

Yuanmou Earth Forest after 4 p.m., when the pillars turn gold

Yuanmou county, northern Chuxiong

Mushroom dinner at Yiduojun, Manghong's best-known restaurant

芒洪 一朵菌

EatIt depends

Mushroom dinner at Yiduojun, Manghong's best-known restaurant

Manghong, Jingmai Mountain

Wild-tomato sour fish and lotus dishes in Puzhehei's villages

普者黑 酸汤鱼

EatWorth it

Wild-tomato sour fish and lotus dishes in Puzhehei's villages

Village restaurants, Puzhehei

A Miao Restaurant: no menu, point at what's in the fridge

芒市 阿妙餐厅

EatWorth it

A Miao Restaurant: no menu, point at what's in the fridge

Mangshi

Dress for 3,200 m and wind at Dashanbao, even if the city is mild

DoWorth it

Dress for 3,200 m and wind at Dashanbao, even if the city is mild

Dashanbao plateau

Sleep in an old muleteers' inn in Lushi

鲁史古镇 马店

StayWorth it

Sleep in an old muleteers' inn in Lushi

Lushi, Fengqing County

Zhiziluo: an hour in a county town left in the 1970s

SeeWorth it

Zhiziluo: an hour in a county town left in the 1970s

Pihe, Fugong county

The plane-tree walk: East Pagoda to Xunjin Street

DoWorth it

The plane-tree walk: East Pagoda to Xunjin Street

Old center, Kunming

Skip Qianshi Mountain, the paid stone-lion park above Jianchuan

千狮山

Skip it

Skip Qianshi Mountain, the paid stone-lion park above Jianchuan

Jianchuan

Jade Dragon above the vegetable stalls: Zhongyi Market at dawn

忠义市场

Photo spotWorth it

Jade Dragon above the vegetable stalls: Zhongyi Market at dawn

Zhongyi Market, Lijiang

Mingyong Glacier: a forest boardwalk to the ice, if it's open

DoIt depends

Mingyong Glacier: a forest boardwalk to the ice, if it's open

Mingyong village, across the Lancang valley from Feilaisi

Paoluda: the cold coconut-milk dessert for Jinghong afternoons

EatWorth it

Paoluda: the cold coconut-milk dessert for Jinghong afternoons

Dessert shops across Jinghong

Ride Jianshui's old narrow-gauge train to Tuanshan village

DoIt depends

Ride Jianshui's old narrow-gauge train to Tuanshan village

Lin'an station, Jianshui

Moon Bay Wetland Park, where the entry fee comes back as credit

DoIt depends

Moon Bay Wetland Park, where the entry fee comes back as credit

North shore of Fuxian Lake, Chengjiang

Rehai: see the Big Boiling Pot, then soak 20 minutes at a time

DoIt depends

Rehai: see the Big Boiling Pot, then soak 20 minutes at a time

Rehai, Tengchong

Time Luoping for mid-February to mid-March, and check the bloom report

DoWorth it

Time Luoping for mid-February to mid-March, and check the bloom report

Luoping County

Yi embroidery and costumes at the free Chuxiong Prefecture Museum

SeeWorth it

Yi embroidery and costumes at the free Chuxiong Prefecture Museum

Chuxiong city

Sunset over the tea hills from a Manghong tea-and-wine bar

芒洪 槚蔎茶酒馆

EatWorth it

Sunset over the tea hills from a Manghong tea-and-wine bar

Manghong, Jingmai Mountain

Skip Puzhehei's paid Swan Lake and the TV-drama set

普者黑 天鹅湖

Skip it

Skip Puzhehei's paid Swan Lake and the TV-drama set

Puzhehei

Xinwanchang night market: Dai and Burmese snacks in an old factory

芒市 新玩厂

EatWorth it

Xinwanchang night market: Dai and Burmese snacks in an old factory

Hedong Road, Mangshi

Zhaotong small meat skewers, grilled over charcoal and ordered by the dozen

昭通小肉串

EatWorth it

Zhaotong small meat skewers, grilled over charcoal and ordered by the dozen

Street stalls, Zhaotong city

Bingdao in spring: pick and pan-fire tea in Mengku's famous village

勐库 冰岛老寨

DoIt depends

Bingdao in spring: pick and pan-fire tea in Mengku's famous village

Mengku, Shuangjiang County

The First Bend of the Nujiang from the Gongdang Mountain viewpoint

贡当神山观景台 怒江第一湾

Photo spotWorth it

The First Bend of the Nujiang from the Gongdang Mountain viewpoint

Bingzhongluo, Gongshan county

Green Lake before 9 am: dancers, choirs and winter gulls

SeeWorth it

Green Lake before 9 am: dancers, choirs and winter gulls

Green Lake, Kunming

Shibaoshan Grottoes: Nanzhao kings carved in red sandstone

SeeWorth it

Shibaoshan Grottoes: Nanzhao kings carved in red sandstone

Shibaoshan, between Shaxi and Jianchuan

Snow peaks without the cable car: Baisha, Hutuwo and Yuhu in one day

SeeWorth it

Snow peaks without the cable car: Baisha, Hutuwo and Yuhu in one day

Foot of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Lijiang

Yubeng is its own trip: plan three days, don't tack it on

DoIt depends

Yubeng is its own trip: plan three days, don't tack it on

Yubeng, Meili Snow Mountain

Yellow-cattle beef hotpot for dinner, or wild mushrooms in summer

黄牛肉火锅

EatWorth it

Yellow-cattle beef hotpot for dinner, or wild mushrooms in summer

Jinghong

Time Yuanyang for the flooded months: November to April

DoWorth it

Time Yuanyang for the flooded months: November to April

Yuanyang rice terraces

Half-billion-year-old fossils at the Chengjiang museum, free with booking

SeeWorth it

Half-billion-year-old fossils at the Chengjiang museum, free with booking

Chengjiang, near Fuxian Lake

Tengchong volcano park: balloons fly early, roughly 7–10 am

DoIt depends

Tengchong volcano park: balloons fly early, roughly 7–10 am

Volcano Geopark, north of Tengchong

Don't walk into the canola for photos

Skip it

Don't walk into the canola for photos

Luoping County

World Dinosaur Valley in Lufeng: real fossil beds, theme-park prices

SeeIt depends

World Dinosaur Valley in Lufeng: real fossil beds, theme-park prices

Lufeng, Chuxiong

Mojiang's black-face festival in early May: wear clothes you'll throw away

DoWorth it

Mojiang's black-face festival in early May: wear clothes you'll throw away

Mojiang county town

Flower Face Festival at Puzhehei: black ash on your face for luck

普者黑 花脸节

DoIt depends

Flower Face Festival at Puzhehei: black ash on your face for luck

Puzhehei, Qiubei county

Try a Burmese-style hair wash in Mangshi

缅式洗头

DoWorth it

Try a Burmese-style hair wash in Mangshi

Mangshi

Charcoal-roasted potatoes with a dry chili dip

昭通 烧洋芋

EatWorth it

Charcoal-roasted potatoes with a dry chili dip

Street stalls, Zhaotong city

Visit the 3,200-year-old Jinxiu tea tree above the Lancang

香竹箐 锦绣茶王

SeeIt depends

Visit the 3,200-year-old Jinxiu tea tree above the Lancang

Xiangzhuqing, Xiaowan township, Fengqing County

Walk into Wuli village on the Tea Horse Road from Chaohong Bridge

雾里村 朝红桥

DoWorth it

Walk into Wuli village on the Tea Horse Road from Chaohong Bridge

Near Bingzhongluo, Gongshan county

Haigeng Dam gulls: be there around 8 am, not at midday

SeeWorth it

Haigeng Dam gulls: be there around 8 am, not at midday

Dianchi Lake, Kunming

Sleep in Nuodeng, a salt-well village famous for its ham

StayWorth it

Sleep in Nuodeng, a salt-well village famous for its ham

Nuodeng, Yunlong county, about 2.5 hours' drive west of Dali

A free family-run pasture just beyond Yuhu village

玉湖村 爷爷种的菜

SeeWorth it

A free family-run pasture just beyond Yuhu village

Near Yuhu village, Lijiang

Cizhong Church: a Tibetan Catholic church and vineyard on the Lancang

SeeWorth it

Cizhong Church: a Tibetan Catholic church and vineyard on the Lancang

Cizhong village, Yanmen, Deqin County

Breakfast like Jinghong: a bowl of Dai rice noodles at a morning stall

米干

EatWorth it

Breakfast like Jinghong: a bowl of Dai rice noodles at a morning stall

Morning stalls, Jinghong

Duoyishu at sunrise, watched from your guesthouse roof

Photo spotWorth it

Duoyishu at sunrise, watched from your guesthouse roof

Duoyishu, Yuanyang

A hot-spring soak at Reshuitang village after a day on the lake

热水塘村 温泉

DoIt depends

A hot-spring soak at Reshuitang village after a day on the lake

Fuxian Lake

Western Yunnan Anti-Japanese War Museum and Guoshang Cemetery

SeeWorth it

Western Yunnan Anti-Japanese War Museum and Guoshang Cemetery

Tengchong city

Breakfast in Qujing city: a bowl of steamed ersi

曲靖蒸饵丝

EatWorth it

Breakfast in Qujing city: a bowl of steamed ersi

Qujing city

Nanhua in mushroom season: eat wild fungi where they're picked

EatWorth it

Nanhua in mushroom season: eat wild fungi where they're picked

Nanhua county, between Chuxiong and Dali

Pineapple rice across from the chieftain's palace in Nayun, Menglian

孟连 娜允古镇 宣抚司署

EatWorth it

Pineapple rice across from the chieftain's palace in Nayun, Menglian

Nayun Old Town, Menglian

Bamei: reach a Zhuang valley by boat through a cave

SeeWorth it

Bamei: reach a Zhuang valley by boat through a cave

Bamei, Guangnan county

Munao Zongge: dance with thousands of Jingpo around the Lantern Festival

DoWorth it

Munao Zongge: dance with thousands of Jingpo around the Lantern Festival

Mangshi and Longchuan

Breakfast like Zhaotong: a bowl of steamed ersi

昭通 蒸饵丝

EatWorth it

Breakfast like Zhaotong: a bowl of steamed ersi

Breakfast shops, Zhaotong city

Try Dai sapie at the Mengding night market

孟定 夜市 撒撇

EatIt depends

Try Dai sapie at the Mengding night market

Mengding, Gengma County

Chongding Church and Puhua Temple: two faiths, one morning

SeeWorth it

Chongding Church and Puhua Temple: two faiths, one morning

Bingzhongluo, Gongshan county

Sunset over Dianchi from Baofeng Wetland

宝丰湿地

Photo spotWorth it

Sunset over Dianchi from Baofeng Wetland

East shore of Dianchi Lake, Guandu District, Kunming

Fengyu at first light: mist over a Bai farming valley

凤羽古镇

Photo spotIt depends

Fengyu at first light: mist over a Bai farming valley

Fengyu, Eryuan county, north of Erhai

Old-town roofs and Jade Dragon in one frame from Bailong Square

白龙文化广场

Photo spotWorth it

Old-town roofs and Jade Dragon in one frame from Bailong Square

Lijiang Old Town area

Order first, then queue: yak skewers on the Feilaisi food street

雪山牦牛肉烤串 飞来寺

EatWorth it

Order first, then queue: yak skewers on the Feilaisi food street

Food street below the Feilaisi viewing platform

Manyuan: a lived-in Dai village for a quiet morning

曼远村

SeeWorth it

Manyuan: a lived-in Dai village for a quiet morning

Near Jinghong

Bada at sunset: the biggest sweep of terraces

Photo spotIt depends

Bada at sunset: the biggest sweep of terraces

Bada, Yuanyang

Don't come in July or August expecting the famous blue water

Skip it

Don't come in July or August expecting the famous blue water

Fuxian Lake

Jiangdong Ginkgo Village: gold for a couple of weeks around late November

腾冲 固东 江东银杏村

SeeIt depends

Jiangdong Ginkgo Village: gold for a couple of weeks around late November

Gudong, north of Tengchong

Zhanyi chili chicken, the dish Qujing is known for

沾益辣子鸡

EatWorth it

Zhanyi chili chicken, the dish Qujing is known for

Zhanyi district, Qujing

Don't buy wild mushrooms at the market to cook yourself

野生菌 别自己做

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Don't buy wild mushrooms at the market to cook yourself

Across Chuxiong, Jun–Sep

Nakeli: an hour on the old Tea Horse Road, not a whole day

SeeIt depends

Nakeli: an hour on the old Tea Horse Road, not a whole day

Ning'er, north of Pu'er city

A Zhuang dustpan feast in Bamei, eaten with your hands

坝美 簸箕宴

EatWorth it

A Zhuang dustpan feast in Bamei, eaten with your hands

Guesthouses in Bamei

One Village, Two Countries in Ruili: a half-hour stop, not a destination

SeeIt depends

One Village, Two Countries in Ruili: a half-hour stop, not a destination

Yinjing, Ruili

Gastrodia chicken stew, a Zhaotong cold-night dinner

天麻炖鸡

EatWorth it

Gastrodia chicken stew, a Zhaotong cold-night dinner

Restaurants, Zhaotong city

Watch paper made by hand in Mangtuan, a Dai village near Mengding

芒团村 手工造纸

SeeWorth it

Watch paper made by hand in Mangtuan, a Dai village near Mengding

Mengding, Gengma County

Stay in Qiunatong, the last Nu village before Tibet

秋那桶 云上人家

StayWorth it

Stay in Qiunatong, the last Nu village before Tibet

Qiunatong, north of Bingzhongluo

Golden Temple Park: a bronze hall in the forest on Mingfeng Hill

SeeWorth it

Golden Temple Park: a bronze hall in the forest on Mingfeng Hill

Northeast Kunming

Walk Cangshan's Jade Belt Road for lake views without a climb

DoWorth it

Walk Cangshan's Jade Belt Road for lake views without a climb

Cangshan, above Dali Old Town

Black Dragon Pool at 8 a.m. for Jade Dragon's reflection

Photo spotWorth it

Black Dragon Pool at 8 a.m. for Jade Dragon's reflection

North of Lijiang Old Town

Yak hotpot in Shangri-La: drink the broth first, then dip the meat

牦牛肉火锅 独克宗

EatWorth it

Yak hotpot in Shangri-La: drink the broth first, then dip the meat

Dukezong old town, Shangri-La

Manzhang Village: Dai crafts and cafés, not an untouched village

曼掌村

DoIt depends

Manzhang Village: Dai crafts and cafés, not an untouched village

Near Jinghong

Hadanpu: the free viewpoint that looks like drone footage

哈单普梯田

Photo spotWorth it

Hadanpu: the free viewpoint that looks like drone footage

Hadanpu, Yuanyang

Ailao Mountain: stay in the open scenic areas, not the wild reserve

哀牢山 石门峡

Skip it

Ailao Mountain: stay in the open scenic areas, not the wild reserve

Xinping County, Yuxi

Skip the jade and amber shop stops on Tengchong day tours

翡翠 琥珀 购物店

Skip it

Skip the jade and amber shop stops on Tengchong day tours

Tengchong

Huize old town: the guildhalls of Yunnan's copper boom

SeeIt depends

Huize old town: the guildhalls of Yunnan's copper boom

Huize County, north Qujing

Shiyang, a quiet salt town with a huge Qing bronze Confucius

SeeIt depends

Shiyang, a quiet salt town with a huge Qing bronze Confucius

Dayao county, north of Chuxiong city

Skip the coffee-estate tours near Pu'er city; have coffee on Jingmai

普洱 咖啡庄园

Skip it

Skip the coffee-estate tours near Pu'er city; have coffee on Jingmai

Around Pu'er city

Walk Bamei's two-hour loop through the fields

DoWorth it

Walk Bamei's two-hour loop through the fields

Bamei valley floor

In Ruili, skip the roadside 'duty-free' shops and jade pitches

瑞丽 免税店 翡翠

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In Ruili, skip the roadside 'duty-free' shops and jade pitches

Ruili

Doushaguan: the Qin-era Five-Foot Road and cliff hanging coffins

豆沙关 五尺道 僰人悬棺

SeeWorth it

Doushaguan: the Qin-era Five-Foot Road and cliff hanging coffins

Yanjin County, north of Zhaotong city

Don't do Wengding as a day trip from Lincang city

Skip it

Don't do Wengding as a day trip from Lincang city

Lincang city to Cangyuan

Don't drive the canyon road after dark or in the rainy season

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Don't drive the canyon road after dark or in the rainy season

Liuku to Bingzhongluo

Tuzhuchao: artist Luo Xu's red-brick 'nests', by reservation only

土著巢

SeeIt depends

Tuzhuchao: artist Luo Xu's red-brick 'nests', by reservation only

Guandu District, Kunming, off the Kunming–Shilin road

Winter cherry blossom over tea terraces at Wuliang Mountain

南涧 无量山樱花谷

Photo spotIt depends

Winter cherry blossom over tea terraces at Wuliang Mountain

Nanjian county, south of Xiaguan

At Lugu Lake, sleep in Daluoshui village on the Yunnan shore

泸沽湖 大落水村

StayWorth it

At Lugu Lake, sleep in Daluoshui village on the Yunnan shore

Lugu Lake, Ninglang county, Lijiang

Songzanlin Monastery in the morning, before the groups

SeeWorth it

Songzanlin Monastery in the morning, before the groups

North of Shangri-La town

Zhanglang: a Bulang hill village that keeps palm-leaf scriptures

SeeWorth it

Zhanglang: a Bulang hill village that keeps palm-leaf scriptures

Menghai County

Azheke, a Hani village of thatched mushroom houses

SeeWorth it

Azheke, a Hani village of thatched mushroom houses

Near Aichun, Yuanyang

Stone Forest at opening time, then Naigu next door

DoWorth it

Stone Forest at opening time, then Naigu next door

Shilin County, Kunming

Make your own indigo tie-dye in a Zhoucheng workshop

DoWorth it

Make your own indigo tie-dye in a Zhoucheng workshop

Zhoucheng village, a few kilometers north of Xizhou

Skip the paid "lake reflection" shot at Yundi'an Café

云堤岸咖啡

Skip it

Skip the paid "lake reflection" shot at Yundi'an Café

Lijiang

Circle Napa Lake by e-bike in two to three hours

DoWorth it

Circle Napa Lake by e-bike in two to three hours

Northwest of Shangri-La town

Water-Splashing Festival in mid-April: book early, bag your phone

DoIt depends

Water-Splashing Festival in mid-April: book early, bag your phone

Jinghong

Laohuzui: ask locally before you drive there

Skip it

Laohuzui: ask locally before you drive there

Laohuzui, Yuanyang

Skip the heavily promoted restaurants on the Green Lake strip

网红餐厅

Skip it

Skip the heavily promoted restaurants on the Green Lake strip

Green Lake area, Kunming

Don't try to circle all of Erhai in one day

Skip it

Don't try to circle all of Erhai in one day

Erhai Lake

Don't hire a Lijiang driver on a handshake

丽江 包车

Skip it

Don't hire a Lijiang driver on a handshake

Lijiang

Skip Pudacuo National Park in winter

Skip it

Skip Pudacuo National Park in winter

East of Shangri-La town

Skip the tea, jade and latex shops your driver recommends

不去购物店

Skip it

Skip the tea, jade and latex shops your driver recommends

Across Xishuangbanna

Crossing-the-bridge noodles in Mengzi, where the story is set

EatWorth it

Crossing-the-bridge noodles in Mengzi, where the story is set

Mengzi