Flooded rice terraces at Yuanyang

The biggest night of the Yi year: torches lit from a ceremonial fire are carried around fields and villages to drive off pests and bad luck, then piled into bonfires for dancing late into the night. Chuxiong runs the largest program at the Yi Ten-Month Solar Calendar Culture Park 彝族十月太阳历文化园 and Yi Ancient Town 彝人古镇, the Sani celebrate at the Stone Forest with wrestling and bullfights, Bai villages around Dali raise tall decorated torches a day later, and near Puzhehei the festivities become the Flower Face Festival 花脸节.

How to join: Base yourself in Chuxiong, where the opening ceremony and nightly bonfire dancing are open to everyone, or visit a village celebration with a local guide. Anyone can join the circle dances: take the hands on either side and follow the steps.

Etiquette: People toss pine-resin powder onto torches to make them flare as a blessing, so wear cotton rather than synthetics and tie back long hair. Book Chuxiong rooms early.

The Hani New Year begins in the tenth lunar month, once the rice is in. Each household carries dishes out to low tables set end to end down the village street, and the whole community eats together: sticky rice, rice-field fish, cured meat and rice wine, followed by songs and toasts. In Yuanyang and Honghe counties some banquets run to hundreds of tables.

How to join: Village banquets welcome guests who come with a local host; the larger county-town banquets are public events, and their dates are often confirmed only a few weeks ahead. Pair it with the terraces around Yuanyang, which start to fill with water around the same time.

Etiquette: When rice wine is offered, accept it politely. If you don't drink alcohol, decline with a smile and toast with tea instead; say 我不喝酒 (wǒ bù hē jiǔ, 'I don't drink') and hosts will understand. Toast the elders first, and wait for your hosts to start eating.

Every winter since the mid-1980s, tens of thousands of black-headed gulls from Siberia have come to Kunming, and feeding them is a city ritual. The best places are Haigeng Dam 海埂大坝 on Dianchi Lake, with the Western Hills behind, and Green Lake 翠湖 in the old town.

How to join: At Haigeng Dam, arrive around 8 am, when the gulls feed hardest; by midday many have scattered. A taxi from the center is the easiest way there. Buy the gull feed sold on site rather than bringing bread.

Etiquette: Toss food into the air or onto the water instead of holding it out, and don't chase the flocks for photos.