Hani Long-Street Banquet

The biggest night of the Yi year: torches lit from a ceremonial fire are carried around fields and villages to drive off pests and bad luck, then piled into bonfires for dancing late into the night. Chuxiong runs the largest program at the Yi Ten-Month Solar Calendar Culture Park 彝族十月太阳历文化园 and Yi Ancient Town 彝人古镇, the Sani celebrate at the Stone Forest with wrestling and bullfights, Bai villages around Dali raise tall decorated torches a day later, and near Puzhehei the festivities become the Flower Face Festival 花脸节.

How to join: Base yourself in Chuxiong, where the opening ceremony and nightly bonfire dancing are open to everyone, or visit a village celebration with a local guide. Anyone can join the circle dances: take the hands on either side and follow the steps.

Etiquette: People toss pine-resin powder onto torches to make them flare as a blessing, so wear cotton rather than synthetics and tie back long hair. Book Chuxiong rooms early.

Every winter since the mid-1980s, tens of thousands of black-headed gulls from Siberia have come to Kunming, and feeding them is a city ritual. The best places are Haigeng Dam 海埂大坝 on Dianchi Lake, with the Western Hills behind, and Green Lake 翠湖 in the old town.

How to join: At Haigeng Dam, arrive around 8 am, when the gulls feed hardest; by midday many have scattered. A taxi from the center is the easiest way there. Buy the gull feed sold on site rather than bringing bread.

Etiquette: Toss food into the air or onto the water instead of holding it out, and don't chase the flocks for photos.

The black-necked crane, the only crane that lives on high plateaus, breeds in Tibet and Qinghai and winters in Yunnan's highland wetlands. Dashanbao 大山包 in Zhaotong, at about 3,200 m, is the best-known site, with flocks feeding and flying around Dahaizi Lake; Napa Lake 纳帕海 outside Shangri-La also has a wintering flock.

How to join: At Dashanbao, the Dahaizi 大海子 crane area is ticketed separately from the Jigong Mountain cloud-sea viewpoint. Get there before the 4 pm rush: the light is best from 3 to 6 pm, and the cranes often take off in the late afternoon.

Etiquette: Keep your voice down in the viewing gallery, stay on paths and never fly a drone near the birds. Bring a down jacket, hat and gloves.